![]() You'll probably be happiest with using no connectors outside, and BNC inside. You're not starting with a 1 kW transmitter. N-type is used in most sensitive RF measurement equipment when BNC doesn't go high enough in frequency – exactly because you can tighten it precisely enough to give a very reliable low-attenuation connection, which isn't easily degraded. ![]() More of a hassle to connect, and disconnect, but very reliable once tightened (don't over-tighten!), and can be wrapped in self-vulcanizing tape to make a connection weatherproof. It's a bit more expensive than BNC stuff. Works up easily to 10 GHz (again, depends on the price, in the end), handles significant power, is sturdy, has low loss and excellent impedance match. Kind of what you see the most in medium-power professional RF equipment's antenna connectors. It's, on the other hand, not as sturdy, and not outdoor-compatible. it depends on what you have, anyway, but don't buy BNC stuff that doesn't say whether it's 75 or 50 Ω.)īNC is also pretty nice as it's quick to connect and disconnect. You have to pay a bit of attention: BNC systems and connectors exist in 75Ω and in 50Ω variants – you need to pick what is identical to your system! (50Ω is kind of standard in RF measurement and lower- to medium-power systems, but 75Ω has typically lower losses and thus is preferrable if you have long cables delivering much power – but the 75Ω cables and connectors typically don't work for frequencies as high as their optically nearly identical 50Ω counterparts, soooo. Also, they are typically able to withstand 1 kV of voltage – enough for high-power transmitters.Ĭables that work with these connectors are cheap, and there's adaptors available to basically anything you want, from SMA over N-Type to Gardena garden hose. It's cheap, easy to buy from multiple reliable manufacturers (I wouldn't go for "sale boxes" on connectors – if you save 1€ on a connector to 50€ on cabling, but end up with something flaky, or lossy, you'll be sad). And you don't want to go up that far in frequency, anyway, probablyīNC is pretty nice for the lower UHF band, i.e. ![]() These expensive connectors don't make sense unless both sides of a connection have the same precision. If you spend more money, you can even get connectors that work up to ~ 4.5 GHz. It can be manufactured to a high degree of precision, which allows frequencies above 1 GHz to be transported well. ![]() The go-to connector for anything that is high-frequency, but not outright microwave, at least in labs. It's called UHF-connector, but it's not good for what we call UHF, at all. UHF actually is defined to be 0.3 to 3 GHz, so nope: Oh, and even they only say the connector works up to 0.3 GHz. You will not like getting less power at your antenna than your amplifier generates. Your amplifier will not like seeing its power getting reflected back at him. That's not really an option, to be honest, when handling power. Just to cite Amphenol RF, which probably are the most important industrial player in RF connectors: They do offer PL-259 connectors, but even they say "Impedance: Non-Constant" on their product specifications, for example: And that gets worse with increasing frequency. That connector was designed before going "so high" in frequency was expected to be common for civil/low-cost radio equipment, and thus, the shape creates impedance changes over frequency. If you, however, plan to work in the 2m band (2m being the wavelength, so frequency is, $f=\frac c\lambda=\frac$), then PL-259 definitely reaches its limits. I have screwed up a few of each of these pricey little connectors, usually when I buy a new crimp style the first one is bound to get screwed up.For shortwave listening, it doesn't really matter – all these connectors are suitable for 30 MHz, and for reception you don't need to work with significant power. The other bad part is that if you screwed it up, it may look 100% perfect on the outside. The sleeve compression type are great if you are always using one size ( I usually am just running RG 6 quad), but I have had problems with tools and ends not working well together. You can generally buy a crimp kit that will have all of the hardware to work with rg 6, 58, and 59.Ĭrimp kits may be all that are available for any odd size of coax, ie one of the 5 coax in a VGA cable.Ĭrimp kits with a seperate crip center pin allow you to make a very good connection to the center conductor physically or with solder. I have had many headaches in this arena, I will answer you question directly, then ramble until I hear the potential down votes piling up.įor the electrical characteristics under ideal specifications, and in permanent, static installs, they should all be almost the same.
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